| Motorcycles of Guatemala |
    During a recent spring break mission trip to Guatemala with a team of U.S. Air Force Academy cadets (a tale unto itself) one of TeamMoto's members had a chance to see how motorcycles are used and abused in GUA. Much more so than the U.S., motorcycles in Guatemala tend to be all-around workhorses, and primary modes of transport. But, there are many ironies, subtleties and paradoxes involved. Harold, interpreter for the team, and a biker himself, wryly encompassed all of that dichotomy with the phrase "Welcome to Guatemala." For example, what we think of as a middleweight here in the States — a 500 or 650cc mount — is a heavyweight in Central America. A lightweight — typically, a 125cc single — rules the roost. In fact, if you see a GSXR600 or CBR600, you are likely looking at a drug-dealer's saddle. Bigger, say a Honda Fireblade? Usually, a come-on in the city for a dealership. Very, very few are spotted in the wild. Why? Well, the average speed on most Guatemalan roads is never much above 50, and usually around 30-40. Fuel is expensive. Road surfaces vary from boulevard/freeway to sloppy macadam to dirt with tennis-ball-sized rocks. (Emphasis on sloppy macadam.) And if you see what you would assume to be a perfect middling mount in a country with cobbled roads— a DR650, for example — it's probably from a government stable. As in Policia, etc. What really flips your lid are the cruisers. They look like big, American cruisers, with their fenders and wide handlebars, etc. But look under the fat tank ... and there's an itty bitty motor, at least by American standards. More? Sure. In Guatemala, there are a plethora of laws. But law enforcement tends be, uh, shall we say, sporadic? Moody? Personalized? ("Welcome to Guatemala.") For example, helmet laws. They tend to be written by municipalities, and they are on the books. But a casual gringo passing-through cyclist survey indicated about 50 percent of male riders don't have a brain bucket shading their ears. Blame the macho culture. Technically, the police cannot stop a moving vehicle. ("Welcome to Guatemala.") But they do if they want to, or set up road blocks. ("Welcome to ..." you get the picture.) While nearly all female passengers had helmets on, many did not when they were piloting scooters themselves. (It looked like it was a style issue.) Speed limits? Hmmmm. A mix. In situations where this gringo would have been flying by, motorcycles were happy to ride second or third banana in a row of cars. That may be self-preservation kicking in. Riding in that traffic position keeps you from being the initial point of impact in the casual, but established, passing techniques used in the country. On blind curves and elsewhere. And that piddler engine doesn't give you the passing power of a 800cc or 1,200cc rig to turbo-boost yourself out of trouble. One interesting thing? Even the smallest thumper — dressed as a cafe racer, dual purpose or standard — was typically polished within an inch of its life. Think of the typical Harley rider's fetish for polish, and you've got an idea. Ironically, most bikes didn't seem to have large rear racks, tank bags, etc. Frequently, however, the seats were exotically decorated. And there were delivery bikes — mostly old Yams with the ram air heads — with huge boxes on the back. Even McDonald's delivers, in Guatemala. Bottom line? America's over-infatuation with horsepower, size and freeway flying probably gets in the way of cultural immersion, out there in the good old US of A. But that doesn't mean our erstwhile correspondent is ready to give up his Buell Ulysses. In fact, on the road from Guatemala City to Monjas, the old Buell would be the perfect high-speed mule.  |